Headed to Japan? Visit These Bookstores!

Japan is a bucket list trip for many travelers, and I’m no exception. I had plans to visit, but the pandemic thwarted them, and I kept itching to go, anxiously awaiting the green light from the Japanese government post-Covid. Let me say this: it was worth the wait. My best friend and travel nakama, Marilyn, snuck away from work two weeks before Thanksgiving and had the trip of a lifetime. We stopped in Tokyo, Takayama, and Kyoto following a bare-bones itinerary, a travel strategy not many people follow, but it works for us. Mary and I made concessions for each other: I’d brave the 5-hour bus trip through the Hida Mountains to visit a traditional onsen if she would stop at all the Japanese bookstores my heart desired. It was the easiest compromise of our nearly 15-year friendship.

“In Japanese culture, nakama holds a significant place in people’s lives. The term refers to a close group of friends who share common goals and values, often bound together through loyalty, mutual support, and camaraderie.”

Matt Lawson, Japanese Board

While I’ve devoted an entire post to our traditional onsen experience in Hida-Takayama, the Japanese bookstores we visited deserve just as much acclaim. In typical Japanese fashion, they’re highly efficient, affordable, and community driven. Some are designed for individual work and study while others inspire conversation and discussion. All ages, language speakers, and reading preferences welcome. Visiting Japan requires minimal convincing in my opinion, but if you’re an avid reader, I’m driving home the point through these Japanese bookstores (and if you’re looking for some cafes to relax and enjoy your bookish purchases in, I got you covered there too!). Hopefully they convince you reassure you that the 12-hour flight from the US is worth it.

Tsutaya Books – Tokyo

There’s nothing quiet about it: Tokyo’s Ginza neighborhood screams loud luxury everywhere you look. Their bookstores are no different. Tsutaya Books is the American equivalent of a Barnes & Noble. They’re a big box retailer selling everything from new releases, classics, coffee table books and collectibles, and comics. Normally, I’m not a fan of these types of booksellers, preferring independent mom and pop shops. Tsutaya might be my favorite of all the Japanese bookstores we visited. The interior features Japan’s trademark cypress and cedar wood, cultivating a relaxing environment for readers and academics. Tsutaya was much noisier than I would have expected, yet there were still hidden pockets where you quietly read. There are multiple locations, and while the one in Ginza didn’t have quite as many English copies (or copies in languages other than Japanese for that matter), they still featured plenty should you want to purchase a copy to bring home. Although, my latest treat aborad is bringing home a book in the native language of the country I’m visiting. A scholarly souvenir, if you will.

Itoya Stationery Store – Tokyo

This might be an article about bookshops across Japan, but one thing about readers: we love our pens. Whether you annotate or journal, infrequently do I find myself without a Pilot G2 near my current read. If you avidly journal or annotate your books (or simply love to craft), I beg you visit Itoya. It’s a 12-story stationery store right next to the Tsutaya Books in Ginza. The original Itoya opened over 100 years ago as purely a stationery store. Since then, it has expanded into every avenue of crafting and paper product imaginable. Each floor specializes in a specific category, which I’ve listed out. Their prices are unbeatable (especially if you’ve ever tried to purchase specialty Le Pen colors at McNally Jackson or other specialty shops here in the US), so don’t feel guilty stocking up.

• Floor 1- GROUND: Greeting cards for all occasions
• Floor 2 – LETTER: Everything you’d need for correspondence (paper, postcards, stationery, stamps, wax seals)
• Floor 3 – DESK: Fancy fountain pens (some costing thousands of US dollars)
• Floor 4 – SCHEDULE: Notebooks, diaries, calendars
• Floor 5 – TRAVEL: Packing essentials, water bottles, backpacks, brief cases
• Floor 6 – HOME: Trinkets and decor for every room of your home
• Floor 7 – FINE PAPER: My favorite floor featuring the most beautiful walls of different types and colors of paper, an Instagrammable paradise
• Floor 8 – CRAFT: Everything needed for a traditional Japanese craft project, like wrapping cloths, origami, and giftwrap
• Floor 9 – OFFICE: Not open to the public*
• Floor 10 – BUSINESS LOUNGE: A community space available to rent
• Floor 11 – FARM: Itoya’s own hydroponic cultivation farm
• Floor 12 – CAFE Stylo: An atmospheric cafe serving artistic, stylish dishes

Bunkitsu Roppongi – Tokyo

Roppongi is another luxurious, vibrant area that’s foreigner friendly. We found ourselves braving a cold, rainy day by bouncing between cafes, museums, and cultural sites when we happened upon Bunkitsu. Bunkitsu is a “bookstore with an entry fee to enjoy culture”. They feature a rotating display of local and larger artists, so not only can you browse their bookshelves, you’ll also learn something about Japanese culture in the process. Admission is 1650 yen, approximately $10 USD, which also includes coffee and free refills at the cafe and access to private study and working areas.

Ogaki Bookstore – Kyoto

If Tokyo is Midtown Manhattan, Kyoto is Williamsburg Brooklyn, and I won’t be elaborating any further. Originally planning the trip, we prioritized Tokyo, but upon exploring, we found ourselves more drawn to the energy of Kyoto. Wishing we had spent more time in Kyoto, we tried to see and do as much as we possibly could. Bookstore perusing took a backseat, but I still popped into Ogaki Bookstore. It’s very similar to Tsutaya, a Barnes & Noble of sorts, but more regional to Kyoto. They had tons of locations you could visit, but I found myself at their main location. It’s in a shared space/mall, so not only could one browse their extensive collection, but you could also shop with other retailers, like a stunning plant and succulent store, a fun and lively 10-seat bar, and multiple cafes and boutiques.