Another trip abroad means another exploration of the local bookstores. This time, let’s head to Italy!

It’s fun to visit a new place and adopt a new persona. I’ve gone by Kim, aka Kiki, short for Kimberly or Kimchi, depending on whose asking. Some trips revolve around a mantra or way of life. I’ve practiced nakama, a Japanese concept for friends who you enjoy doing things with, while exploring Kyoto with my better half. There’s no real thought or objective behind persona shifting or mantra adopting. The goal is always escapism – leaving my normal life in the review and racing toward a new, albeit temporary, adventure. Which is why this most recent trip to Rome and Florence, I adopted the Italian turn of phrase dolce far niente, or “the sweetness of doing nothing”, as the theme for my trip. The Italian bookstores I visited confirmed this was the correct (and sweetest) approach.

I arrived in Italy without an itinerary, or a hotel room for at least 4 of the nights I was there. Thank you, Microsoft Consulting, for stealing my 20’s by forcing me to live out of a carry-on suitcase in cities like Oklahoma City, Oklahoma and Bentonville, Arkansas. An even bigger thank you to Marriott Bonvoy, for rewarding the sacrifice of my 20’s with lifetime titanium elite status. You’re my crowning achievement.

Sure, I had regional pasta dishes I wanted to sample and pictures in front of attractions like the Trevi Fountain or the Duomo of Florence, but beyond that, the goal was to wander. Turning my brain off to fully immerse myself in Italian culture, cuisine, and men came with two exceptions:

1. Do not ignorantly compromise my safety, especially since I was traveling alone.
2. Visit as many bookstores or literary locations as possible.

It should surprise no one that I prioritize bookshops during my travels. They’re where I find solace, escape the noise, and calm my mind. Even when I have no clue what I’m looking at due to a language barrier or general unfamiliarity that comes with being abroad, I end up at a bookstore. European bookstores are a unique treat too. Compared to those we find in America, they’re often in old, preserved buildings or converted homes. Europe has such a longer civilized history than us, and its history frequently accompanies independent bookselling. Renaissance-era architecture, strong espresso, and an assortment of Italian authors: what more could you ask for?

There was no shortage of bookstores on the latest trip. Below are some of the Italian bookstores I visited during my time in Rome and Florence. Tell me which one you’d most like to visit!

Cinema Odeon

Duomo San-Giovanni, Florence

Cinema Odeon was the only non-negotiable of the trip. A book lover’s Paradiso sent straight from God himself by way of The Vatican, or something very similar. It’s deific, hyperbole necessary. By hell or high water, I was making it to this bookstore, and I cannot emphasize enough how worth the visit it is. Cinema Odeon in its current form just opened in November of 2023. To learn more about its history, refer to my blog post here, where I discuss its origins in greater depth. It’s such an incredible story about local citizens rallying to preserve a cultural landmark in a modern way.

From the street, you feel the merging of cinema and literature. The original display windows that held movie advertisements now contain curated shelves of new book releases, special editions, and upcoming author events. Walking in feels like attending opening night at a new Broadway performance. There are velvet curtains that pull back into stage-lit bookshelves. A ring light was not necessary for pictures. For being a historical site, there is no shortage of new releases, well curated and organized by genre.

The main event is the top floor. I will caution that you might have to queue at the base of the steps based on how busy they are, but it’s a quick wait. And well worth it. Odeon’s original theater seating has been preserved for readers and movie goers to relax from the balcony. Plenty of people started reading their recently purchased novels. Students completed projects, the work from home crowd sent emails, parents and children watched a 101 Dalmatians and The Sword and the Stone double-feature. At night, the projector that shows kids’ movies during the day switches to a full-blown movie theater. The night I visited, Odeon showed Dune 2. There really is something for everyone.

Paperback Exchange

Duomo di Firenze, Florence

A block from the iconic Duomo of Florence hides Paperback Exchange. They are an English print bookstore, also carrying Italian titles, both new and used. They also feature an amazing collection of journals and display unique, local artists. The energy is welcoming and comforting. There were tourists from many different countries in the shop with me, as well as a handful of American expats attempting to keep up with the latest fiction releases. If you ran out of time before boarding your flight and couldn’t make it to a Hudson News, fear not! Paperback Exchange has everything you’d want to read during your relaxing time off.

Spazio Sette Libreria

Largo Argentina, Rome

Italy is fully stocked when it comes to intricate, ornate murals. Since my first trip to Rome in 2015, I’ve argued that attractions need to offer evening programs at tourist destinations where you can rent a cot and lay horizontally to fully appreciate their ceilings without triggering neck pain. Spazio Sette Libreria is no exception. They’re an Italian print bookstore with a fantastic cafe and children’s section. Nestled in a quiet Argentinian neighborhood, they showcase books on current events, like the Palestinian genocide and American politics, as well as notable BookTok romances. Talk about dynamic.

You’ll want to brave the multiple flights of steps to the top floor for the grand prize: a gorgeous ceiling mural from the 1700’s. You see, Spazio Sette occupies the former Cavallerini Lazzaroni Renaissance Palace, and it preserved its original art, floors, and adornments. Visitors can’t help but immerse themselves in la dolce vita, thanks to the original swoon-worthy frescoes by Giacinto and Ludovico Gimignani. During my visit, there were two separate author events taking place. It’s a hub for modern collaboration and community in a 4 century old building. Many other Italian bookstores pale in comparison.

P. Tombolini & Co.

Rione Trevi, Rome

Everything is old in Italy. It’s a fact that must be accepted, especially when you compare it to anything we have here in America P. Tombolini and their collection of special editions is no exception. This is not your regular bookstore: they feature first editions, books that are no longer in print, and other collector’s items. When you enter the store, please be respectful of their selection, as some of these books might be older than you, and in that case, definitely more expensive. P. Tombolini is located a couple blocks from the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, so while you may not want to go out of your way for such a niche shop, if you find yourself in the area, check them out.

Altroquando

Ponte, Rome

Altroquando is for the Brooklyn crowd, Williamsburg specifically. You either understand that, or you don’t, and that’s ok! The shop was supposed to open early afternoon, which turned into 6 PM. I thought I had missed them, went next door for a pre-dinner tiramisu, and came back to them just starting their day. Worked out quite nicely honestly Inside, you’ll find an excellent curation of Italian authors and local artists on display. But their main event has very little to do with books: in the back right corner of the store is a staircase into their basement pub – Anderquando. So grab your next read then relax in the basement with a Negroni or an Aperol spritz.

Borri Books

Stazione Termini

At first glance, you wouldn’t expect that a bookstore in Rome’s bustling train station would be independently owned. You’d be wrong to assume. Borri Books boasts a collection of 130,000 titles in mainly Italian and English. They also offer a handful of popular titles in other common European languages. They also feature nearly 15,000 comics. Keep your head on a swivel in here: customers have places to go and people to see. This is not a bookstore to casually peruse the aisles of. Have a gameplan and execute so that you don’t miss your train to your next Italian destination.