The Medici’s Florence Itinerary, or so I’ve Been Told

Cosimo de Medici, the greatest Florentine patron of the past 5 centuries and one of the most innovative financiers the world has ever seen, died of gout. A man so dedicated to the arts and preserving Florentine prominence that his patronage would be studied across the world could not hold himself back from one more glass of Chianti. If that doesn’t warn you about the intoxicating, addicting culture Florence is in possession of, even 400 years later, I’m not sure what else will. Combined with artistic preservation that has long outlived the Medici bloodline, Florence needs to be a stop on your next visit to Italy. Check out this Florence itinerary to help you wine, dine, and recline yourself across the city as if you were Cosimo reincarnated, gout not included.

All Roads Lead To…

Melaleuca

Americans love a hearty breakfast to start their day. Italians order un doppio at a counter, down it in a sip or two, possibly order a pastry, and go about their business. However, Melaleuca is speaking directly to both brunch-crazed millennials and Instagram-dumping GenZ’s with their menu and ambiance. White subway tiles and creeping ivy plants are like a bat signal to a younger American crowd battling a hangover or working from home. You’ll find both crowds dining at Melaleuca. The morning I visited, I was famished, so I ordered a full entree and a pastry. My only mistake in ordering was that I didn’t leave enough room for seconds. And let the record show: Melaleuca’s cinnamon roll is the best I’ve ever eaten. I can’t even name a runner-up. So while it might not be your typical Italian breakfast, Melaleuca is a can’t miss stop on your Florence itinerary.

act.i – Renaissance

Pitti Palace and Bololi Gardens

Within walking distance from breakfast is Palazzo Pitti, a collection of galleries and gardens on the banks of the Arno River. It features Renaissance-era paintings, sculptures, and interior design that will make your head spin and your neck ache. Seriously. I will say until I’m blue in the face that since Italians love ceiling murals so much, museums and galleries should host events where you can rent a cot and lay horizontal to properly appreciate them. I feel like chiropractic lobbyists will never allow this, but a girl can dream.

The seasonal exhibit features Italian fashion through the decades, showcasing Gucci, Versace, Missoni, and other Italian fashion powerhouses. Included in your cost of admission to Pitti Palace is Boboli Gardens. It’s a welcome breath of fresh air after being overwhelmed by so many portraits and murals. Peruse fountains and hedge mazes while you get lost in the little bit of greenery the city offers. Make sure you pay close attention particularly to the exit. It features a sprawling view of Florence from above, the perfect photo opp.

Mangia, Per Favore

All’Antico Vinaio

I know you’re starving at this point. You’ve walked past cafes serving countertop espressos, a salumificio or two slicing everything from prosciutto to capicola to bresaola, and more gelaterias than you can count. This taunting and teasing is for your own good, because we’re headed to one of Florence’s main attractions: All’Antico Vinaio. Quite frankly, that’s not even a fair enough description of this shaved meat paradise. It’s been one of the most visited and reviewed restaurants on Trip Advisor for the past 10 years, taking the top spot in 2014.

You know that scene in Ratatouille where Colette describes knowing good bread? “How do you tell how good bread is without tasting it? Not the smell, not the look, but the sound of the crust.” All’Antico Vinaio has mastered the crunch. They server their sandwiches on fresh baked focaccia that workers carry out piping hot from their ovens in the back. It’s pandemonium trying to order during peak hours, so stick to the menu. Italians would never lead you astray about their cured meats. I make no disclaimers about the fascism though. If you’re looking for a recommendation, I had the Tre Colori, and while the beef carpaccio might be a bit pungent and adventurous for some, anything with their homemade stracciatella and pistachio cream sauce is toe-curling delicious.

“It’s OUR name, Sweetie”

Shopping at the Original Gucci

Cardio is the best way to work off those mid-afternoon carbs, and my favorite method is retail therapy. The shopping in Florence is unparalleled (this includes book shopping – check out my write up of Cinema Odeon). There are chic, luxury brands on every corner with trendy boutiques nestled between. If you have no idea how to get started with building you own Italian wardrobe, just look to any of the shop staff. Italians impeccably dress. I’ve never seen better accessorizing and custom tailoring across a general population.

Whether your budget allows for it or not, visit the Flagship Gucci store. The brand was founded in Florence and still sources its leather from the Tuscan countryside. Fans of House of Gucci will recognize the floor to ceiling pink velour from the movie, which is worth the visit alone. My sales associate, Christina, gave me a full history lesson on the brand, shared lookbooks of exotic materials (think ostrich, crocodile, python), and even let me try some on! At one point I looked down and easily had $50,000 worth of exotic bags in front of me. I thought I was going to throw up. I didn’t go home with the cerulean crocodile mini bamboo (this visit), but the experience was the epitome of luxury. The only drawback? Drunkenly screaming Lady Gaga’s iconic quote in the mirror until 1 AM.

The Best Knock Knock Joke

Osteria Bella Donna

Ready for a laugh? You can knock on windows across Florence, and they’ll open with a glass on wine. Ok, that’s not a joke, it’s serious, but it’s laughable to think this amazing city could get even better! Back in the 1600s, our favorite capitalist, Cosimo de Medici, devised a system where wine producers from the Tuscan hills could sell their wines directly to individual consumers within city limits without having to pay the steep taxes on alcohol at the time.

Enter: wine windows. 400 years later, this Florentine staple still services locals and tourists alike. Osteria Bella Donna is a local favorite. Although, Stanley Tucci dropping by in a Searching for Italy episode changed the typical clientele. Still, wine is always worth the detour, and in the future, I’ll post a Florence itinerary solely devoted to the city’s wine windows. Sounds like the perfect excuse to plan a return visit!

“Alexa, Play Come Fly with Me by Frank Sinatra”

Duomo di Firenze

There’s absolutely zero way I could publish a Florence itinerary without including the Duomo. I haven’t developed a proper vocabulary to accurately describe La Piazza di Duomo. Every time I try, I fail to capture the magnitude of the cathedral, the attention to detail, the physics. I mean, Brunelleschi developed new scientific principles to complete the dome. What’s wild is just grand the cathedral is and how very little space surrounds it. It’s like it popped out of the ground like a tulip emerging from a bulb, that’s how tight of a space it occupies. I visited the Duomo at multiple points throughout the day, and my favorite was sunset. The reflections off the marble inspire romance. Mix in the shadows of the tightly lined streets and an orchestra of talented musicians, it’s an irreplicable ambiance best shared with your loved ones.

Is There Enough Food on this Florence Itinerary?

Cibrèo Trattoria

No. Because Florence itinerary is complete without pasta. Did you really think I’d let you end your day without stuffing your face with lasagna? Pappardelle with wild boar ragu? Anything with truffles? Absolutely not, this is a carb friendly blog. Which is why we are night-capping at Cibrèo Trattoria, a rightful Michelin Bib Gourmand winner. Cibrèo as a brand has multiple locations throughout Florence, which their founding restaurant specializing in one of the best Florentine steaks in the city. Now, as a solo traveler, there’s no way I was putting down 60 ounces of bistecca, which is why I went with the brand’s rustic child, the trattoria.

In my usual fashion, I studied the menu, researched Yelp, and developed a course-by-course gameplan, which completely blew up the moment I heard their specials: shark fin soup, stuffed chicken neck, braised rabbit. It’s the most exotic menu I’ve ever dined at. Feeling adventurous, I went with the lamb brain, which is good faith I cannot recommend to the average traveler, but just know it was fantastic. And if my mother isn’t reading, their lasagna is the best I’ve ever had.